Levi’s Tags by Era: How to Date Your Vintage Levi’s Jeans

If you're into vintage denim, there's a good chance Levi's is at the top of your list. But figuring out whether your pair is a true 80s relic or just a modern throwback can be tricky. In this guide, we’ll break down the key Levi’s tag and logo details by era so you can confidently date your denim.

1. The Red Tab: Big E vs. Small e

One of the most famous vintage indicators is the red tab on the back pocket:

• Big E ("LEVI’S"): Used before 1971. All caps, with a capital ‘E’. Highly sought after and more valuable.
• Small e ("Levi’s"): Introduced in 1971 and still used today. Most jeans from the 70s onward will have this.

Quick Tip: If your jeans have a Big E tab, they were likely made pre-1971.

2. Orange Tab (1969–1999)

The orange tab was introduced to signal a more youthful, fashion-forward line:

• Used from late 60s to late 90s.
• Often seen on flares, bell bottoms, and slim fits.
• Tags read “Levi’s” with a small ‘e’.
• These are still widely collected and becoming more popular among 90s/Y2K lovers.

3. Care Tags and Inside Labels

Inside tags are a goldmine for dating Levi’s:

• No care tag = likely pre-1971 (care instructions became mandatory around then).
• Paper tags were used from the 70s to mid-80s.
• Fabric care labels with RN numbers started appearing in the late 80s.
• Look for the Made in USA detail—by the early 2000s, most Levi’s production moved overseas.
• Pro tip: If there’s a three-digit number stamped behind the care tag, that’s the factory code—a helpful dating tool when cross-referenced.

4. Selvedge ID (Pre-Mid 1980s)

Selvedge denim (with the clean edge when you cuff the jeans) is another indicator:

• Common in Levi’s 501s made before the mid-80s.
• Look for the red or white selvedge line inside the outseam.
• While Levi’s has reissued selvedge jeans in modern collections, vintage selvedge from the USA is still king.

5. Waistband Patch Evolution

Check the leather (or faux leather) patch on the waistband:

• Paper-like patches were common in 70s/80s.
• Thick leather patches are generally older.
• The branding and fading can hint at age—newer patches look cleaner and more detailed.

Quick Era Cheatsheet